I remember getting out of the van, seeing the Red Fort over there, across that muddy moat with the little trickle of muddy water meandering in the muddy streambed. The Red Fort looked like some sandcastle that thousands of little sunbathers, sometime, way back in the long dream of this timeless land, had dug out of the river basin, with thousands of little sand shovels and sand pails. And time and the sun had hardened it, compacted it, made it dense and strong.